Water Wave Mechanics

Water Wave Mechanics


II-1-1. Introduction

II-1-2. Regular Waves
a. Introduction
b. Definition of wave parameters
c. Linear wave theory
(1) Introduction
(2) Wave celerity, length, and period
(3) The sinusoidal wave profile
(4) Some useful functions
(5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations
(6) Water particle displacements
(7) Subsurface pressure
(8) Group velocity
(9) Wave energy and power
(10) Summary of linear wave theory
d. Nonlinear wave theories
(1) Introduction
(2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory
(3) Subsurface pressure
(4) Maximum wave steepness
e. Other wave theories
(1) Introduction
(2) Nonlinear shallow-water wave theories
(3) Korteweg and de Vries and Boussinesq wave theories
(4) Cnoidal wave theory
(5) Solitary wave theory
(6) Stream-function wave theory
(7) Fourier approximation — Fenton’s theory
f. Wave breaking
g. Validity of wave theories

II-1-3. Irregular Waves
a. Introduction
b. Wave train (wave-by-wave) analysis
(1) Introduction
(2) Zero-crossing method
(3) Definition of wave parameters
(4) Significant wave height
(5) Short-term random sea state parameters
(6) Probability distributions for a sea state
(7) Wave height distribution
(8) Wave period distribution
(9) Joint distribution of wave heights and periods
c. Spectral analysis
1) Introduction
(2) Description of wave spectral analysis
(3) Examples of frequency spectra
(4) Wave spectrum and its parameters
(5) Relationship between H1/3, Hs and Hm0 in shallow water
(6) Parametric spectrum models
(7) Directional spectra
(8) Wave groups and groupiness factors
(9) Random wave simulation
(10) Kinematics and dynamics of irregular waves

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